LOUISIANA
ERWIN STRENTZEL
Louisiana Erwin Strentzel of Honey Grove, Texas left with her husband and family to go to California in 1849. She wrote back to her family in Honey Grove, detailing her journey. Below is a small sample of this letter which was written in a normal fashion, then the paper was turned sideways and she continued to write, making a crisscross pattern. This was done to save paper. Below the sample of the letter is a transcription of the letter.
LOUISIANA ERWIN STRENTZEL LETTER
Typewritten translation of letter written in 1849 by Louisiana Strentzel giving an account of the hardships and adventures encountered in crossing the continent to California by wagon-train in 1849. The letter is written to her parents, Mr. & Mrs. Samuel Augustus Erwin, and to her brothers and sisters left behind in Honey Grove.
No 2 California
Mission of San Diego December 10th, 1849
Dear Father and Mother Brothers and Sisters
After an absence of eight long months I at last have an opportunity of writing to let you know that we are all alive, and have reached in safety the borders of the promised land. We have made our way through a widerness of eighteen hundred miles——underwent many hardships and privations——passed through many dangers and difficultys——crossed Jorden and the Desert——landed safely in California and are enjoying excellent health at present. We have not heard one word from home, since we left, and suppose you have heard nothing from us. We wrote several letters on the way, but met with no certain chance to send one until after we came to this place. (paper missing] is leaving for Panama on the third inst. and we wrote a brief letter informing you of our arrival here and furnishing [paper missing] the particulars of our journey by the next vessel. we have kept a journal of everything of interest that transpired on the way and will give such extracts as we think will be of interest to you. after leaving the Upper Crosstimbers we had a very good road from there on to the Brassos river, a distance of two hundred and thirty miles from home, fine grass and water all the way, we reached this river on the 25th April and forded it without much difficulty. from here we traveled too much west and struck the river again in about 60 miles, while here a band on Tonkoway indians came into camp in daylight and stampeded and drove off seven head of horses, a company of 60 men immediately followed after them and the next day returned with all the horses. we had several false alarms after this but saw no more indians from here to Elpasso. from this place on for a distance of 200 miles we had a good road and plenty of grass and and water. on the 16th May we came to a large spring of excellent water and lay by several days to cut wagon tyres, while at this place Mr Sims of Blossom Prairie died of liver disease. the morning we left here I was taken very sick with diarhea and severe fever and continued very sick for about 2 weeks, after recovering from this I have enjoyed excellent health ever since, from this spring the next water 5 miles and it strong sulfur and salt so that we would have been better off without it. after leaving this water we struck a level plain and traveled 70 miles without water, the first we found was large pools of pure cold water in a ridge of sandhills (Sandhills water holes near Monahans) we were two days and nights crossing the plains, the animals gave out so that we had to stop the wagons and send them on about ten miles to the water and after resting and recruiting them returned for the wagons. a great many of the company believe if we had traveled more south we would have found water plenty but I do not know for we sent water hunters many miles in every direction. we remained at this place one week and then went on about 30 miles and came to the Puerco (Pecos) river a narrow deep muddy stream we made boats of wagoribeds and feried across the loading, pulled the wagons over with ropes and swam the animals we crossed the river on the 3d June, on the 4th we went on and within two miles of the crossing fell into a plain wagon road which had been made by a company of 50 wagons from San Antonia. we now had a fine level road for 60 miles up the river but the grass and water not good. after leaving the river we had about 80 miles of mountainous country, some places very but good grass and fine spring water all the way. while in the mountains we came up with the San Antonio company, eight families and one-hundred men. the first water we came to after getting through the mountains was very salt and made the animals all sick to drink it. the indian guide who was with the San Antonio company said it was yet ‘90 miles to Elpaso and little or no water, and we better travel in small companies, some rushed their teams clear through to the Rio Grande, some stoped and dug wells, some went 20 or 30 miles and sent their teams back to the salt spring, and others left their wagons on the way, drove their animals on to water and then returned for the wagons. we and a few others stayed behind awaiting for rain, and the same evening we left the salt water there fell a tremendous heavy rain so that the road was in a float of water, and the branches and ravines all running, the road was level and good all the way except one place of about three miles through a range of mountains, very rocky and bad. grass tolerable good. a great many animals died on the way and a great many so broke down that they were fit for nothing any more. we traveled slowly stoping at every good patch of grass, saving our animals as much as possible and arrived at Elpasso on the 1st July. we expected to send letters back from this place but met with no opportunity. Col. Bryant from Trinity who returned home left Elpasso the morning before we .came in, a great many of the company sent letters home by him. we remained at Elpasso 12 days. the Mexicans were very friendly to the Americans we bought peaches, pears, apples, grapes, onions, green beans, green corn, wheat, and unbolted flour, there was no bacon to be had, and very little beef or muton, and that very indifferent, mules and oxen were not to be had, the indians were constantly making incursions on the inhabitants and driving off their stock. at this place the company divided and some went one way and some another, some left their wagons and went on with packmules. while we remained here the emigrants were daily coming in but we could get no news later than the 17th April. We left Elpasso the 13th July and traveled slowly up the river, moving camp every few days until the animals were recruited enough to go on. we had a fine smooth road and plenty of grass all the way (paper missing] of the river 80 miles above Elpasso. we had to take the wagons to pieces and cross in a little canoe spliced on each side [paper missing] emty keggs. we left the Rio Grande on the 28th July, and traveled about 20 miles
and came into Cooks trail, a large plain wagon road, hundreds of wagons had already gone before us, from here to the Guadaloupe Pass a distance of 220 miles we had a beautiful level road with very few exceptions, fine tender grass and plenty good water all the way. the Pass is about 16 miles through and tremendous bad road, had to lock wagon 70 times in going 6 miles, but we came through safe without breaking our wagons. from this place to Santa Crus is about 112 miles. here is the range of wild cattle, hundreds of them were killed by the emigrants, we killed one and barbacued as much as we could haul. along here was the best grass we had on the whole route, a very good road and excellent water. about 10 miles before we came to Santa Crus we had a very bad mountain to cross but by doubling teams we through without much difficulty. Santa Crus is a little isolated Mexican village of about 300 inhabitants, unprotected and exposed to the mercy of the Apache indians who come in at leisure and drive off all their stock, kill and take them prisoners, we bought of them peaches, quinces, apples, pomegranates, tomatos, green corn, onions, and coarse unbolted flour, they had no meat of any kind to sell, the articles that traded best with them were calicos and white domestics. from this place to Tucson is 108 miles, a very good road, good grass and water. about 50 miles from Santa Crus we passed an old deserted village with orchards hanging full of most delicious peaches and quinces, we laid in a fine supply. Tucson is a Mexican town of about 500 inhabitants, they have to sell mules, oxen, cows and calves, sheep, green corn, unbolted flour, cheese, grapes, and drid beans. from Tucson to the Pimose village is 75 miles, a beautiful level road all the way but grass and water scarce, about 12 miles from the village we came in sight of the long wished for Gila river, it is narrow at this place, runs swift, the water cool and good tasted. the Pimose are a tribe of friendly indians settled along the river in villages, they raise fine corn, wheat, beans, and melons and supply the emigrants to feed their animals across the desert, the articles most in demand with them were blue blankets, white domestics and hard beads. at this place begins the desert. it is about 200 miles from the last of these villages to the crossing of the Colorado at the mouth of the Gila, no other water but the river, and very little grass. we bought about 12 bushels of corn and wheat, we could not haul more, and left the village the 22nd Sept. after leaving the village we had about 45 miles without water or grass and the whole way very sandy, we hauled water in keggs enough for animals one drink, and the second day reached the river but found rio grass, the first we came to was 20 miles further—on, only a small patch and mightily eaten down by the stock before us at this place we met a company of Mexicans returning from the gold mines, they gave aweful accounts of the road before us, that the way was strewed with dead animals, and that wagons and property of every kind were left standing on the road all the way thro the desert, this news created grat alarm amongst all the emigrants, we immediately unpacked our wagons and threw out all heavy articles that we possibly dispense with to lighten the load, from here we traveled about 5 miles and to a large patch
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of excellent grass, here we lay by 8 days to recruit the teams, the emigrantsall rested and recruited their animals at this grass. while at this place we learned from a pack company that ex President Polk was dead, and that the cholera was raging all over the United States, a great many of the emigrants put on mourning. We now found that the only way to get through was to travel slowly in the cool of the day, save the animals as much as possibl, and stop at every little grass we could find, we soaked the corn in water and give each a small ration every day. from here down to the mouth of the Gila we had alternately dust and sand nearly the whole way, and very little grass, some places on the banks of the river little patches of green corn, the dust was al— (the rivers
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Gila and Colorado both overflow nearly their whole valeys, leaving a light ashy loam when the water recedes) —most insupportable it was cyeneraly from six to twelve inches deep, it was almost impossible for one wagon to travel nearer than fifty yards of another. we met carivans of Mexicans almost every day, they all gave bad news, and we found their statements to be but too true. a great many when their teams began to fail, left their wagons and packed what they could, others left wagons and everything [paper missing] to take them through. boxes and trunks of clothing were thrown out, chests of costly medicines, chests of carpenters tools [paper missing] (many would throw their things into the river to prevent the indians and Mexicans from getting them, some would) [paper missing] [r]iver tools, cases of surgical instruments cases of watchmakers instruments, chests of valuable books, be[ds a]nd bedclothing [paper missing] (them in the sand, and others would [paper missing]
them up, the most of the wagons were burnt) cooking utensils, cooking stoves, vessels of every description, guns, powder and lead, gold washers, shovels, axes, chains, of all kinds, whole (a man came in today from Houston Texas, who threw his patent sold washer into the river built a fire) sacks of coffe, barrels of hard bread, bacon and other provisions, blacksmiths tools, table ware of every description, and in fact you can (and burned up his wagon and everything else but enough provisions to bring him through.) name nothing that was not lost on this road, yet a great many who had good teams, traveled slowly and managed them with care (the first emigrants reached the Colorado about the midle of August, and they have been coming in one continuous line ever since,) came thro, without much loss, we arrived at the crossing of the Colorado the 15th October. we had dreded this river the whole way (one of the ferrymen told me that upwards of two hundred wagons crossed the river during the month of November.) for we heard that several Americans had been killed by the indians, and that it was dangerous crossing, but gratitude to our government a company of soldiers were stationed here for the protection of the emigrants. here we found plenty of grass, cane, and muskite beans while we lay at the river awaiting to cross, Captain Thorn, U.S. dragoons and three men fell off the boat and were drowned, it was caused by imprudence. we crossed the river the 19th and landed safely on California soil from the crossing 15 miles down the river, [paper missing] we then left the river and traveled 15 miles to the emigrant wells, the whole way very sandy, here we found plenty good water and (they are termed by the emigrants bread-fruit because they grow in the desert,) [paper missing] beans, but no grass, these beans grow in clusters on the musquite trees, they are as good food for animals as corn or oats, we rested (they are very sweet, and when ground make good cole— flour and mush.) at the wells three days, gathered as many beans as we could haul, and at 4 oclock in the evening filled all our vessels with water and started to cross the main desert, we now had 37 miles without water or grass, and the whole way a heavy bed of sand, we traveled slowly until 10 oclock at night, stoped and rested until morning, started again at daybreak, and traveled slowly, restining the animals at short intervals, and at 12 oclock stoped and gave each a little water and rested them three hours, then traveled on till dark, we encamped for the night and early next morning traveled on agains, and about noon arrived at camp Salvation on New River, here was a (had it not been for this water, the musquite beans and the corn at the Pimose village, not one wagon could have caine through) large lake of good water with a brnch running of f from it, and plenty of good grass. there are various opinions about this water--some think it comes from the Colorado, others that it is rainwater accumulated, at any rate General Kearney, Colonel Cook and others wenth through without finding it. we remained here several days to rest and recruit our mules cut hay to do them thro the rest of the desert and on the 30th left camp Salvation and traveled 15 miles to the next water, a large lake of excellent water but no grass. this 15 miles was firm road. from here to the next water was 25 miles, the way very sandy though not so bad as the previous road, the first we came to was a small creek, the water a little brackish and no grass. our mules were so tired that we had (in going this 16 miles I - counted 27 dead animals immediately by the road, besides those that had wandered off in search of water and died) to rest here one day. from this to the next water was 16 miles along the bed of a dry creek, and worst sand of the whole desert. we left camp early and traveled about 9 miles, the whole day like pulling up a steep hill, the mules give out so that we encamped and rested until morning, then went on 7 miles and arrived at Valey Ceta the end of the desert, here we found good water and tolerable grass. from this place to Warners ranche is 35 miles tolerable good road, plenty water but grass rather scarce, we rested at Valey Ceta one day, then went on and reached Warners the 8th November, here we lay by two weeks, we were advised by Col. Warner and others to go either to San Diego, or Los Angelos and remain over the winter, that on account of the rainy season it would be impossible to travel to San Francisco by land this winter, and that nothing could be done in the mines before spring, we concluded to go to San Diego, and arrived here the 29th November, from Warners this place is 70 miles, some very bad road, but good water and grass, it is mountainous country, some beautiful green valeys and some large oak timber, though scarce. we at first thought to sell our wagons and mules and go up to San Francisco by water, but the emigrants have brought in so many and sold, that now there is no demand for them, there is rio chance to get a house in town, everyone is taken up, and a great many living in tents, provisions are scarce and very high, flour is 25 cents per pound and other things in proportion, emigration to California I believe has no paralel in history, every place we can hear from is crowded to overflowing and hundreds still coming in, the most of them go to Los Angelos and Monterey, hundreds leave the trains and come on foot to San Diego, and go up by water, of the country we know nothing as yet only what little we can hear from passengers, we undistand there is a great deal of fatal sicness in San Francisco at present caused by being exposed at the mines, the climate around San Diego mild and pleasant and very healthy, as far as I can learn the emigrants have been remarkable healthy on the road and coparetively few deaths, a great many would have suffered for provision, but the government sent aid to them, we had enough to bring us into the settlements, we can hear no certain account from those who went the northern route the latest news from the mines is that gold is found in 27 pound lumps, but I expect such pieces are few and far between, we know not yet whether we shall settle in California or return to Texas, it is altogether owing to how we like the country when we see more of it. we all stood the journey remarkably well, the Doctor has not been sick a day since we left the crosstimbers, and looks better than you ever saw him, I have never enjoyed better health in my life than I have done ever since last May, little Pussy and Johny have not been sick an hour since we left Bonham, they both look red and rosy, and have grown so they cannot wear a garment that was made for them before we left home, they both rode in the carriage the whole way, never appeared to get tired, but was always ready of a morning to start on. Puss would the whole way gather flowers and prettys for her Grand Ma, and still talks about her every day, and says when she learns to write, she will send her a letter, she can talk right plain now, Johny is a great big fat fellow he has been runing every where since July, but cannot talk much, his whole delight is to drive the mules, every evening when we would stop the first thing [paper missing] whip and then run about and hollow get up at everything in his way. well I think my paper is almost filled [paper missing] to quit for the [rubbed out by fold in paper] letter by every opportunity, remember me to [paper missing] one and all, [paper missing] and may we all meet again, is my prayer. Affectionately yours Louisiana StrentzelI intended to have given you in this letter a full history of the way we were treated by Donstin, Eliza, T. Johnson and the old man Scott, but have not space to tell you only that they all joined together against us, and told everybody on the road that Donstin was well settled at home, had plenty of everything around him, had a good farm opened, good comfortable houses and plenty of stock and was doing well, that they were unwilling to move, and that the Doctor was goiig to California as a speculation, and had persuaded them to break up and come for his own benefit, that Donstin had a good wagon and could have bought a team and furnished himself with everything, but that we persuaded them to come with us and leave everything behind, that they had sold nothing, left everything just standing so, and that we would not even let them bring their clothing, that Thomas was going to school in Paris, and that we persuaded him to quit school and come with us, that he had a good horse and saddle and gun, and could have furnished himself provisions and everything but the Doctor would not let him bring anything, and finaly they were only going for our benefit, and the Doctor must pay them for driving his teams. the old man Scott told everybody on the road day after day that my sister was going to marry Charley Scott and go with to California, but the Doctor and Mrs. Strentzel interfered and would not let her come, and she cried to come every day before we left, and that Charley had promised to go back for her next fall, but his Mother was so much opposed to it that he would try to persuade him not to come, that she was a prety girl and a smart one, and would have come with Charley had
it not been for them. these things were daily told to the company, and of course people that did not know better would believe them. it would fill a volume to tell you all, and as soon as I can I will write you everything from first to last, but enough at present that we traveled together to the sandhills every day worse and worse, the horses and mules neglected, and when Doctor would give directions how to manage them the reply would be you damned rascal I’ll manage the horses as I think proper, here Dotor told Thomas he could take him rio further, he had become so insulting, would do nothing, and constantly off gambling. Eliza was sick the whole way, once we thought she would die. at the sandhills one of the team died at the Puerco river two more were drowned and we had to leave one wagon, Donstin took out his things without Doctor telling him, and got Mr. Hackelford to take him to Elpasso, Doctor hired another man to haul 230 pounds of bacon, before we came to Elpasso they all went on before and reached town several days before we did, Donstin went to the man who had the bacon told him the bacon belonged to him, took it out, payed the man for hauling it and sold it to the emigrants at 25 cents per pound, amounting in all to 65 dollars, sixteen fine midlings. with this money he dressed himself and his wife, went into Elpasso and there met with an old acquaintance from Sata Fee, told him the old story how he had left everything, and had no money, the man went and got him a house, assisted in getting him boarders, and the last we heard from them Eliza had entirely recovered her health, and they keeping boarding house and taking in from ten to fifteen dollars a day. when Thomas left us he went with the Vice of Paris and this last we heard from him he was in Elpasso gamboling.
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I know not what to say to you about coming, but I do think that even if the country should prove to be everything that it has been represented to be or that we anticipated or even Eden itself, that it would be better for those who are well settled at home and doing well to await until the storm has calmed and those already here settle or return back home, from the best information the gold is inex[paper missing]le and people can do as well to come after a while as at present. but if you do come
I advise you come by water, it is far less expensive and you can come in half the time you can by land I cannot advise any family to come the over land route, but if they should let them prepare well for the journey, and travel in small consolidated companie~ say about ten wagons and twenty or twenty five men, to each family I would say one light strong carriage for women and children to ride in with two good mules and a woman can drive it anywhere, one light strong wagon with six mules, if you have more wagons you must have more team and help to manage them and consequently more provisions and. bagage, put nothing in your wagon except provisions and clothing and such articles as are indispenseably nessessary on the road, bring vessels to haul about fifty gallon of water, sacks are the best, let each family have about five or six good milk cows, two boys can drive any number, I believe there would have been little no sickness amongst the emigrants if they could have lived on a milk diet, the most prevalent diseases wer diarhea and gastric fever, produced by bad water and irregular living, we brought our own cow clear through, she has been worth thousands of dolars to us, yes I may say millions for she may have been the means of preserving the lives of our children, a great many worked cows to their wagons clear through, and I believe they stood the trip even better than oxen, you could bring a few good riding horses, but they will not do to work in a wagon, do not coral your animals but have good hobles and keep herders constantly minding them when you stop, no company of indians will attack 25 men well armed and on their guard, there was some few men killed by indians, but in every instance when they were alone and without arms, each company should have the same kind of teams so they can travel all alike let them in no case seperate, for this reason you should travel in small companies, you can get along a great deal faster, and then there are many places water and grass for a few animals but not enough for a large drove, several women rode on horseback all the way but a carriage is the best especialy in bad weather, we have come the southern route, the troops have now left the Colorado and the emigrants are still crossing, San Diego is crowded with emigrants awaiting to get passage up, but the vessels are all so crowded that a great many will have to turn and go by land [paper missing] men arrived yesterday from Panama she had on board three hundred passengers and could take more from here, she brought New York pap [paper missing] 7th Nov. containing the awful Hungarian news, cholera &c. this is the first news received here since August, direct your letters to [paper missing] and do write by every chance. Louisiana.new
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You will here find a true description of our journey so far. Compare our (paper missing] you will find as much information about the subject as required. We have concluded to travel on [paper missing] along the coast to Los Angelos & Monterey, camping at each rainy spel—-in this maner we can leave cheaper & do something toward reaching the El dorado. today the 21st
(?] I did read the New York herald of the 7 November--there no mail did come here for the last four months--It appears that now through the United States an office is a synecure to the holders & to do the duty appertaining to it, is out of question--how the civil & military officers are only full of speculation, how to depress the value of the little property the emigrant saved--they buy mules from 5 to 20 dollars-—I wonder how much Uncle Sam has to pay for them-—Previous & when we arrived here the Quartermaster would issue rations to emigrants it dry bread & pork--some had to pay--others got gratuitously--at different prices——now they refuse it--but it required two & three days before you could get that the Quartermaster order £ another day or two to get it from the issuing sergeant--consider that all the time great many had to hunger--because there was no provisions to be had anywhere else——& the Quartermaster be on a visit than.G there & Mr. Sergeant drunk--We buy more wheat at 6 # a 2 1/2 bushels-—grind it on a Coffeemeal & make very tasty pan cakes by grising the pan with Tallow-—we kill plenty rabits-—quails-—ground squirrels & some ducks & eat as hearty meals as ever——We remembered you at our Christmas diner & had one as good as the country af forded—— Included is a note for 14 # on Sugar which I did forget to leave for collection-—be particular about repeating our bussiness news——do not forget to pay our taxes--to Mr. Augustus my special compliments & I hope he did collect on the notes--if you have any funds please grease a little-—to obtain the patent for the 320 on South Sulfur of Mr Keys certificate--& & & Your letter addres to Monterey. Now for 1850 (paper missing] Jubilee Year—-may it to you my friends be a year of Jubilees--be happy, dear pappy--improve your home--let it be a sweat home-—& when you have enemies persuade them for a Land journey to Calleforn—— The Lord bless & protect you. Yours sincerely JhnSecond
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Colonel Jack Hays of Texas is expected here today, he has just landed through the and encamped at a rancho 12 miles back, our mules have recruited 1 finely on the green tender grass, the weather is warm and pleasant like spring and the road up the coast reported to be good, we shall start on in a few days, we will write by every opportunity
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